InfoZone


Fixing the Float Assembly


Before you begin making any repairs to your dishwasher you need to turn off the power supply to the dishwasher.

Before you get started you will need some items. Make sure you have a screwdriver, small pliers, multitester – sometimes referred to as a multimeter, a pen and labeling devices for wire labeling.

The multitester will be your aid in diagnosing electrical issues and you will also use it to measure resistance. The way this is done is by measuring the ohms - resistance of the wire to flow of electricity. The range of ohms goes from zero to infinity. A reading of zero ohms shows that it is very easy for the electricity to flow. A reading of infinity means there is no path for the electricity to go through.

Most multitesters are hand-held with an LCD display. They have two wires referred to as leads. One wire is red and the other is black, with metal tips called probes.

You will want to begin by checking to see if any of the prongs that are attached to the tub, are missing or broken. This is because this part touches the door switch when the door is closed, signaling that the door is closed. If the prongs are broken or missing the switch will believe the door is open and not allow water to be supplied to the dishwasher.

If the prongs are all in place then you will need to check if the door switch itself is broken. You test this by testing the three terminals. Most terminals are black and have metal terminals that look like prongs extending from them.

Start by removing the inner panel from the door making sure that you do not remove the screws from the hinges at the bottom. Then remove all wiring harness leads from the switch terminals. Pull on the metal wire connector. Do not pull on the wires themselves. If your dishwasher has a locking clip, press the lever while gently pulling on the connector to release the wires from the terminals.

Take the multitester and set the ohms to RX1. Touch the metal tips of the test leads and zero the ohm meter. Touch one meter lead to the common terminal (COM) and the other meter lead to the normally open terminal (N.O.) making sure you do not push the actuator. You will want to see a meter reading of infinity. Then press down on the actuator until a clicking noise is heard. The reading should be zero ohms. Keep the COM terminal in place while moving the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. Again you want the reading to be infinity when you push the activator’s switch. Now release it and see if you receive a resistance reading of zero ohms. Set the ohm meter to the highest resistance and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the normally closed (N.C.) terminal. You will want to see a reading of infinity. Last, take the resistance reading from both terminals to any metal mounting hardware that is part of the switch assembly and see if you receive a reading of infinity.

Any reading other than the ones described indicates a defective or broken part that will need to be replaced.

Remove the faulty switch and replace with the new part.

PartStore recommends that you run one full test cycle without dishes to make sure that everything is working properly.